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LVMH luxurious watches at Watch Week in Miami

LVMH launches Watch Week in Miami

Luxurious big LVMH is making a push to achieve share of the worldwide luxurious watch enterprise, with a newly shaped watch division and an array of recent, higher-priced fashions.

Gross sales of luxurious watches worldwide are estimated at about $30 billion this 12 months, in response to market analysis agency IMARC Group. They’re anticipated to develop to greater than $37 billion by 2032, as international wealth will increase and Technology Z and millennials change into extra curious about high-end mechanical watches.

LVMH’s jewellery and watch division posted gross sales of $11.8 billion in 2023, representing a 7% enhance in natural progress. The posh big now has 10 watch manufacturers, together with TAG Heuer, Hublot and Zenith, together with trend and jewellery manufacturers similar to Louis Vuitton, Bulgari and Dior that additionally make watches.

Final month, the corporate named Frederic Arnault, the 29-year-old son of LVMH Chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH Watches, which incorporates the TAG Heuer, Hublot and Zenith manufacturers.

Analysts estimate gross sales of these three manufacturers reached about $2 billion final 12 months.

A Zenith luxurious watch at 2024 Watch Week in Miami.

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Frederic Arnault, who launched an array of extremely common new fashions at TAG Heuer, is anticipated to carry his give attention to innovation, cutting-edge supplies and inventive designs to the bigger model group. Analysts say LVMH might also proceed to amass engaging manufacturers in the event that they change into accessible.

In interviews with CNBC throughout LVMH’s Watch Week in Miami, the manufacturers’ chief executives mentioned 2024 is already shaping as much as be stronger than 2023, when rising rates of interest and fears of recession tempered demand. Executives say they’re particularly inspired by the resilience of the American luxurious shopper.

“It’s all about cycles, and the beauty of America is that the cycles are very short,” mentioned Benoit de Clerck, CEO of Zenith. “We go through ups and downs and all that, but I can reassure you today Zenith is definitely on an upswing with good traction within the U.S. markets.”

Zenith luxurious watches at 2024 Watch Week in Miami.

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Watch gross sales are following the same sample to the broader luxurious market, the place the wealthiest shoppers stay strongest. Executives say the rich are much less affected by rising charges and financial uncertainty, so increasingly manufacturers are catering to the “super-spenders” and VIP collectors who proceed to spend on the best high quality and craftsmanship.

“The high end has been really one of the main drivers of our growth,” mentioned Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari. “I think the wealthy more than ever are eager to invest in authentic, reputable and timeless brands.”

Babin mentioned he is seeing rising power on the excessive finish all through Bulgari’s companies, which now embody lodges, trend and fragrances.

“We sold more high-end jewelry, more high-end watches, more high-end bags,” Babin mentioned, displaying off certainly one of Bulgari’s coveted yellow-gold Serpenti Secret watches that retails for $350,000.

A Bulgari Serpenti Secret watch at 2024 Watch Week in Miami. 

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LVMH can be concentrating on the fastest-growing phase of luxurious watches: ladies’s watches. Whereas ladies’s watches account for under a couple of third of whole gross sales, ladies’s curiosity in luxurious mechanical watches has soared from extra publicity on social media and a rising variety of fashions designed for ladies. The rising international inhabitants of rich ladies — each self-made and inherited — can be fueling gross sales progress.

“The trend is toward more and more feminine and more unisex watches,” mentioned Babin. “Women have increasing power, in terms of independence, autonomy and purchasing power. We think that will continue.”

Reinvention

Within the extremely aggressive luxurious watch world, manufacturers should continuously innovate with supplies, issues and designs to achieve share and maintain collectors engaged.

Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon at 2024 Watch Week in Miami. 

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TAG Heuer, which has its roots in automobile racing, scored an enormous hit with its Carrera Plasma, utilizing lab-grown diamonds. Its Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon is priced at upward of $500,000 — and has a waitlist of greater than two years.

TAG Heuer additionally unveiled a teal-green Carrera Glassbox Chronograph with a teal-green dial, referencing a shade of inexperienced utilized in auto racing within the Twenties and Nineteen Thirties.

A TAG Heuer luxurious watch at 2024 Watch Week in Miami. 

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TAG Heuer CEO Julien Tornare mentioned LVMH’s benefit over different watch manufacturers and teams is its relentless give attention to reinvention and desirability.

“The Swiss watchmaking industry has been quite conservative to some extent,” he mentioned. “But at LVMH, we are pushed to try new things, to move forward. I think if we want to still be appealing to [a] new generation, it’s very important to show that we will work for the future and not for the past.”

Most of the LVMH manufacturers are mining their storied pasts for brand new designs and fashions.

Zenith launched its Chronomaster Triple Calendar, that includes a triple calendar moonphase chronograph, impressed by its uncommon prototype El Primero watch from 1970. The corporate additionally launched a brand new Chronomaster Sport in inexperienced, the most popular colour for luxurious watches in recent times.

A Zenith luxurious watch at 2024 Watch Week in Miami.

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De Clerck mentioned that a part of Zenith’s attraction to youthful watch consumers and collectors is its value. Whereas Zenith sells extremely difficult watches, it tries to ship worth, just like the Triple Calendar that sells for about $14,000 however may in all probability be priced “thousands more” primarily based on the extent of workmanship and issues required, he mentioned.

“We have a very good proposition in terms of price versus the competition,” he mentioned. “You get a lot of watch for the money, and we want to remain and keep that spirit.”

On the similar time, many LVMH manufacturers are shifting up the value ladder, with costlier, restricted editions. Hublot, recognized for its daring, giant watches, simply launched a $250,000 limited-edition watch, known as the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Vitality System. Solely 50 of the futuristic watches will likely be produced, and it is anticipated to shortly promote out.

“We call it the art of fusion in watchmaking,” mentioned Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe. “We are connecting the tradition of watchmaking of over 400 years, with innovation. We do that through design, through materials, new mechanics and new ways of making movements.”

— CNBC’s Crystal Lau contributed to this report.

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