Attempt going for a stroll in a lot of Guatemala Metropolis: It’s a pedestrian’s nightmare.
Bikes velocity down crowded sidewalks. Rifle-grasping guards squint at every passerby, sizing up potential assailants. Smoke-belching buses barrel by cease indicators.
However tucked inside the chaotic capital’s crazy-quilt sprawl, there’s a dreamlike haven the place none of that exists.
Within the Metropolis of Cayalá, a utopian area created by one among Guatemala’s richest households, the streets are quiet and orderly, the shops are upscale and the houses attainable — if solely to households from the nation’s small, moneyed elite, or foreigners, just like the American diplomats stationed on the enormous newly constructed United States embassy close by.
Evoking the texture of a serene Mediterranean city, Cayalá options milky white buildings with red-tile roofs, a colossal civic corridor with Tuscan columns, cafes and high-priced eating places, colonnade-lined plazas and walkable, stone-paved boulevards. All of that is open to the general public — apart from the gated sections the place about 2,000 households reside.
“In 20 years, Cayalá will be just like La Rambla,” mentioned Andrés García Manzo, a restaurateur who lives in one among Cayalá’s secluded villas, drawing a comparability to Barcelona’s legendary pedestrian-friendly promenade. “You can walk everywhere here in peace.”
However critics say it’s largely a playground for the well-off, arduous to succeed in by public transit, environmentally devastating and has attracted important funding at the same time as different components of crime-ridden Guatemala Metropolis fall into decay.
However a fierce debate is flaring about whether or not Cayalá aggravates issues of inequality and entry to city areas, as a substitute of assuaging them, after protesters in opposition to the efforts to thwart the nation’s new president, Bernardo Arévalo, from taking workplace have been barred by gunmen from the realm.
The highlight on Cayalá — which roughly interprets as “paradise” within the Indigenous Kaqchikel language — casts consideration on the function of structure and concrete design in one among Latin America’s most unequal countries, the place an estimated 59 % of the inhabitants of 18 million subsists under the poverty line.
Cayalá began out on a modest scale 20 years in the past when Guatemala’s Leal household, which owns massive swaths of among the capital’s final city forests and had already constructed fenced-off neighborhoods, hatched plans for a distinct form of neighborhood.
They employed a Luxembourg-born architect Léon Krier, who had labored with King Charles III on a model town in southern England, to assist plan Cayalá. Architects together with the College of Notre Dame’s Richard Economakis additionally signed on, drawing inspiration from the Parthenon of Athens to design Cayalá’s civic corridor.
Non-public safety guards carefully monitor the grounds, particularly on weekends when buyers flock to the realm. The neighborhood has proved particularly in style with guests from neighboring El Salvador.
In a metropolis the place the higher lessons have lengthy lived in well-guarded communities, Cayalá won’t have change into the main target of an uproar if not for the protests that exploded in October round Guatemala over the in the end unsuccessful makes an attempt to prevent Mr. Arévalo from taking workplace.
Whereas protests elsewhere within the nation unfolded largely peacefully, two motorists compelled their automobiles by the demonstrators close to Cayalá’s entrance and gun-wielding men in ski masks, together with an proprietor of a enterprise in Cayalá, barred the protesters from coming into the realm.
The episode left many aghast.
“I was stunned when I saw those images,” mentioned Dora Monroy, who lives in a neighborhood subsequent to Cayalá. “When someone takes a rifle to a peaceful protest, it’s a form of intimidation.”
Cayalá’s builders declined to touch upon that episode, and didn’t reply to questions on criticism of the enclave. However in a press release, a spokesman mentioned, “Cayalá is a city for everyone.”
As they nurture plans to increase, some query how that might impact a few of Guatemala Metropolis’s final remaining forests.
Bárbara Escobar, a biologist and conservationist, mentioned the enlargement might inflict injury on a basin essential for recharging groundwater, whereas endangering a habitat for foxes, raccoons and owls.
“I’m not against development, but one has to do things right,” she mentioned. Noting that bus entry to Cayalá is proscribed, largely making it a spot for individuals affluent sufficient to personal automobiles, Ms. Escobar added, “This is a zone of exclusion, designed for a privileged minority in this country.”
In a twist, dissension can be coming from Mr. Krier, one among Cayalá’s creators. Mr. Krier, who has labored on Cayalá since 2003, acknowledged that it was conceived as a spot for upper-class Guatemalans to reside.
“You have lots of things for the extreme rich,” he mentioned. “We built for the medium and wealthy rich.”
However Mr. Krier additionally emphasised that he envisioned Cayalá as a totally non-gated improvement with two- to three-story buildings, impressed by Persian, Greek and Roman cities of antiquity, the place individuals from all walks of life might collect.
“The city should be walkable, not only horizontally but vertically,” he defined, including that tall buildings make cities too dense, elevate vitality prices due to the necessity for elevators and prioritize actual property hypothesis over high quality of life.
A departure from that imaginative and prescient got here, Mr. Krier mentioned, when “the residents got together and democratically voted for gating,” successfully creating an array of closed communities inside a improvement that in any other case stays open.
A plan by Cayalá’s builders to construct high-rises as they increase, which might generate increased returns from a business perspective, was a step too far for Mr. Krier, who not too long ago resigned in response.
“The pressure on me as master planner became unbearable,” he mentioned. “Skyscraping is, I think, an immoral act.”
Criticism of Cayalá has been constructing for years, with some questioning the challenge when city areas which might be potential gems, like Guatemala Metropolis’s outdated middle, are in disrepair.
Javier Lainfiesta Rosales, the founding father of a enterprise offering advertising for startups, referred to as Cayalá an “abomination” in an essay.
“In Cayalá, there are no homeless people, begging children, malnutrition, street vendors, harassment, collisions, extortion, assaults, corruption, or inequality,” he mentioned. “It’s a piece of the First World in the heart of a city dangerously close to being Fourth World.”
Nonetheless, Cayalá has many defenders, who level out that individuals from completely different backgrounds frequent its open areas.
Warren Orbaugh, an structure professor at Francisco Marroquín College, hit again on the give attention to the hundreds of timber felled to construct and increase Cayalá.
“What wasn’t once forest here in Guatemala?” Mr. Orbaugh requested. “Cayalá should multiply like cells around the country, replicated in terms of its scale and population density.”
Cayalá’s attract was on show this month, when guests, together with Indigenous households chatting in Mayan languages, roamed its grounds, taking selfies in entrance of items of sculpture. Younger {couples} intertwined on park benches whispered sweet-nothings to at least one one other.
Different guests wandered into Cayalá’s cavernous Roman Catholic church. Oenophiles sipped wine at cafes, and partyers at an overflowing Mexican restaurant drank margaritas.
Simply steps away, behind Cayalá’s gates, its well-guarded residential areas, perched close to a nature reserve, have been eerily quiet.
Mr. García Manzo, the restaurateur who lives in Cayalá, mentioned the three eating places he owns there present jobs for greater than 100 individuals.
However he acknowledged that fears emerged amongst his neighbors through the protests when rumors unfold that a whole bunch of buses have been headed towards Cayalá to assault the realm.
“I told my neighbors that was impossible, if they come they won’t be carrying torches to light our houses on fire,” mentioned Mr. García Manzo, emphasizing that he was in opposition to taking on arms to guard Cayalá. “The rumors created a strong psychosis.”
For Carlos Mendizábal, an architect who loathes Cayalá, that wasn’t shocking. Citing the necessity to consistently repaint its white partitions and restore its air con, all whereas bolstering safety, he referred to as it an unsustainable “white elephant.”
“After all this time,” Mr. Mendizábal mentioned, “Cayalá is still a shopping center pretending to be a neighborhood.”
